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Bearded Dragon
(Pogona Vitticeps)
Range
All of the Bearded Dragon Species are native to parts of Australia and New Guinea. They are found mainly in arid, rocky,
semi desert regions and/or open woodlands. There are seven (7) species of
Bearded Dragons, the most common of which is the
Pogona Vitticeps (also known as the Inland or Central
Bearded Dragon). This species of
Bearded Dragon is the most widely
available species in the US. Pogona Barbatta (also known as the Eastern or Common
Bearded Dragon) and the Pogona Henrylawsoni
(also known as the Rankins
Bearded Dragon) are becoming more available in the hobby as adult specimens are being selectively bred.
The remaining species, Pogona Minima (also known as the Western
Bearded Dragon), the Pogona Minor (also known as the Dwarf
Bearded Dragon),
the Pogona Mitchelli (found in Northwest Australia), the Pogona Nullabar, and the Pogona Microlepitoda are all far more less commonly found in the US.
Appearance
Bearded Dragons are categorized as “Large Lizards” with adults reaching lengths of 18"-22", with some specimens that have
even grown to more then 24”.
Bearded Dragons have a larger triangle shaped head with a beard of "Pointy Extended Scales".
This is where they got the name
"Bearded" Dragon, as they can often flare their beards up to attempt to scare off any
possible predators. They carry these same “Pointy Extended Scales" along the sides of their body as well. A
Bearded Dragons
tail is roughly the lame length as their Snout to Vent Length (SVL), which makes their tail length equally proportional to
their body length. Over the years breeders have “selectively bred” different color variations of
dragons to come up with
the many “morphs” that we have available on the market today, such as; Red Flame,
Flaming Tiger, Snow, Hypo, Tangerine,
German Giant, Leucistic, Translucent, and many more.
Selection
When selecting a Bearded Dragon for a pet make sure and choose a
dragon that is active and alert with a nice plump belly
and looks well hydrated. Do not select a
dragon that is too thin or is displaying wrinkles along its body, these are signs
of possible illness. If possible you can ask to see seller to offer the
dragon food so you can observe it eating, this way
you can be sure that the dragon is at least healthy enough to eat. There are many places to purchase
Bearded Dragons ranging
from local pet stores to individual
breeders. Personally I would rather purchase a
dragon from a
breeder then a pet store.
Pet stores are often not familiar with the animals they sell so therefore don’t properly care for them.
Housing
Proper housing for Bearded Dragons can range anywhere from glass tanks to custom built enclosures. Mesh/screen cages are not
recommended, as they are known to filter out UVB light. If a glass enclosure is used, be sure to have a tight fitting screen
top for it. Any enclosure used for
Bearded Dragons should be able to retain heat, be long enough to provide and temperature
gradient for your dragon to be able to thermo regulate, and be able to provide proper ventilation. Due to the adult size of
Bearded Dragons they do require a large enclosure. The absolute minimum enclosure size for a single adult
dragon should about
30” long x 18” wide x 18” tall. If you are planning on housing multiple
dragons you would have to go with something much larger
then this. The absolute minimum size enclosure for a “pair” or dragons would be one that is at least 48” long (preferably 60”),
at least 12” wide (preferably 18”-24”) and at least 18” tall. We house our breeders in “trios” (1 Male, 2 Females) in custom
enclosures measuring 60” long x 18” wide x 30” tall. There is much debate over whether
Bearded Dragons should be housed together
or not, some say yes, some say no. It all depends on the personalities of the individual
dragons; surely there are some that won’t
get along with others where alternate housing may be required. If you are planning on housing multiple
dragons together, just be
ready to separate if things get out of hand. In all cases, never house more then one male in one enclosure. Two male
dragons will
not get along with one another. Males are very territorial and therefore not housed together.
Substrate
Bearded Dragons can be safely housed on a number of different substrates ranging from paper towel to fine sand. Hatchlings however
should not be housed on sand at all, as impaction risks are higher at this age, and smaller
dragons may be curious and attempt to
ingest some of the sand which can cause a blockage can and will lead to death. Hatchlings should be kept on a non-particle
substrate such at paper towels, repti-carpet, or non-adhesive shelf liner. Adult
Bearded Dragons can be kept on all the substrates
mentioned for hatchlings but can also be kept on “washed play sand”. When using sand as a substrate, make sure it is very fine and
that all of the small pebbles (if any are present) are sifted out. Wood chips and/or bark chips should never be used as a substrate
for Bearded Dragons. Some
Bearded Dragon owners have even used decorative tile as a substrate with much success. Repti-Carpet can
be found and your local pet shop or online, non-adhesive shelf liner, tile and play sand can be purchased at a home improvement
store such at Lowes, Home Depot or Menards.
Lighting and Temperature
Bearded Dragons, unlike some other various lizards do require exposure to UVB light (full spectrum). This can be provided in a number
of different ways. A full spectrum UVB fluorescent tube (that produces at least 7% UVB) can be used. If this option is utilized a light
and fixture that is the same length as your dragons enclosure should be used. Also be sure that your dragons basking area is no more
then 8” from the UVB light. Another option for providing optimal UVB is a Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB). This bulb should be housed in a
ceramic fixture that is rated the proper wattage. MVB’s provide optimal UVB at much larger distances, and also can serve as the heat
source for your dragon. This way you have one fixture and bulb that provides heat and UVB for your dragon. MVB’s come in a few different
wattages, so be sure to follow the manufacturers directions for minimum distances the bulb should be from your dragon. For more
information on Mercury Vapor Bulbs, or to purchase one online, visit www.reptileuv.com. In addition to optimal exposure to UVB,
Bearded Dragons also require a Basking area with a temperature of 95-105 degrees Fahrenheit for adults and 110-115 degrees Fahrenheit
for hatchlings. Follow the basking area guidelines as laid out in the housing section. Bearded Dragons required a day/night schedule.
A good routine to follow would be 12-14 hours day time (lights on), and 10-12 hours night time (lights off). Purchasing an appliance
timer can really save you some time by turning the lights on and off automatically on a daily basis.
Food and Water
As hatchlings, Bearded Dragons require a lot of protein in their diet (75% protein). Offering a variety of insects will help them grow
to be large, healthy adults. A few staple insects for bearded Dragons are; Crickets, Silkworms, Mealworms, Superworms (Adults only),
lobster roaches, etc. a lot of these insect feeders are readily available in a canned, freeze dried form as well as live. Other insects
such as Butterworms, Waxworms and Hornworms can be fed on an occasional basis, they are higher in fat, but the dragons will love them.
It is quite possible for you dragons to get addicted to these and very well may not accept other feeder insects. Waxworms are the fattiest
and is a very good worm to use for gravid females or females regaining weight after egg laying. Bearded Dragons can also be fed commercial
foods such as pellets. Bearded Dragon Pellets come in a hatchling formula and an adult formula, and are made by companies such as; Flukers,
Jurassi Diet, etc. As hatchlings, Bearded Dragons may not eat many “greens” and that’s okay, they are not as important to a hatchlings
health as insect protein is, though they can still be offered if you choose to. As hatchlings start to eat “greens”, more can be offered.
The best “greens” to offer are; Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, Turnip Greens, Kale, Raw Figs, Escarole and Endive. Bearded Dragons can also
be offered a variety of different fruits and vegetables such as Squash, Green Beans, Bell Peppers, Apple, Cantaloupe, Cabbage, Celery, etc.
Things to not feed very often are Carrots, and Spinach, both of which can bind the calcium that the dragon intakes. As adults, Bearded
Dragons can encounter a number of heath problems including kidney failure if they intake too much protein over a long period of time.
An adult Bearded Dragons diet should be 75% greens/vegetable matter, and 25% insect/commercial food matter. Where they are offered a
“salad” every day, and insects 1-2 times per week. Bearded Dragons require calcium supplement with vitamin d3. This bought in a powder
form and made by companies such as; Rep-Cal, etc. For hatchlings, dust their insects and salad every day. With adults only dust their
food 2-3 times per week. Hatchlings should have a shallow dish of clean, chlorine free water available in their enclosure at all times,
where as adults should just be allowed to soak in luke warm, shoulder deep water, 1-2 times per week as they get their hydration from
their “greens”. Bearded dragons are known to defecate in their water bowls so daily checking and cleaning if needed shall be performed.
Breeding Bearded Dragons
Section coming soon. Thank You for your patience...
Copyright © 2005 Jayr &
Mandy Robinson
J&M Herp Shack
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Bearded Dragons
Corn Snakes
